A euro cylinder lock with its keys

What is a Cylinder Key?

The key behind most modern front doors

A cylinder lock is the small barrel that sits inside a door lock. You put the key in the front, and the cylinder decides whether the lock's bolt is allowed to move. The key is a flat metal blade with a row of cuts along its edge, known as the 'bitting'.

In the UK the most common shape is the Euro profile cylinder, found in uPVC, composite and aluminium doors, many timber doors fitted with euro mortice locks, and commercial doors. Oval and rim cylinders turn up on older doors and night latches. Almost all of them use a pin-tumbler mechanism.

'High-security' cylinders add hardened parts, extra security pins, restricted keyways and key-control cards, and the best are independently tested to standards such as TS 007 and Sold Secure.

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A cutaway of a cylinder lock showing the pins and key

Cylinder Key at a glance

  • Typical security: Standard to very high (depends on the cylinder)
  • Mechanism: Pin tumbler
  • Common shape: Euro profile (also oval and rim)
  • Typical pins: 5 or 6
  • Key: Flat blade with cuts along the edge
  • Sizing: Measured in mm either side of the central fixing screw (for example 35/35)
  • Copied on: Standard or high-security duplicating machine

Inside the lock

How does it work?

Diagram of a pin-tumbler cylinder lock A cutaway of a cylinder with five pin stacks. The key lifts every stack so that the join between the key pin and the driver pin sits exactly on the shear line, letting the plug turn. Springs push the pins down Driver pins Shear line Key pins Key: its cuts set the height of each pin stack
The key lifts each pin stack until the split between the pins lines up with the edge of the turning plug (the shear line).

Pins stand in the way

Inside the cylinder are stacks of small pins - a key pin below and a driver pin above - pushed down by springs across the gap between the turning plug and the fixed housing. While those pins straddle the gap, the plug cannot turn.

The key lifts each stack

As the right key slides in, each cut lifts its pin stack to exactly the right height so that the join between the pins lines up with the gap. This line is called the shear line.

The plug turns

With every pin aligned, the plug is free to rotate and a cam at the back of the cylinder moves the lock's bolt.

Extra protection in better cylinders

Higher-grade cylinders use specially shaped pins (such as spool and serrated pins), hardened inserts that resist drilling, and a sacrificial break-line so that, even if the outer part is snapped off, the part that works the lock stays out of reach.

In the workshop

How is a cylinder key cut?

Most cylinder keys can be copied quickly on a duplicating machine. The important part is getting the right blank and a clean, accurate cut.

Identify the key and blank

Cylinder keys come in many profiles (keyway shapes). We match your key to the correct blank, because the wrong one will not enter the lock or turn smoothly.

Trace and cut

On a duplicating machine the original and the blank are clamped side by side. A tracer follows the cuts on the original while a cutter shapes the blank to match. The new key is then smoothed (deburred) and tested.

Cut by code

If the original is lost, a key can be cut from its code, which may be stamped on the key, on the cylinder or on a security card, using a code-cutting machine, or made by working from the lock itself.

Key-controlled systems

Some high-security cylinders are 'key controlled': copies are only made when the registered owner presents the security card, so keys cannot be duplicated casually.

Uses

Where you will find it

uPVC, composite and aluminium front and back doors

Timber doors fitted with euro mortice locks

Commercial and communal doors

Padlocks, cabinets and lockers

Master-key systems in offices, shared houses and student accommodation

The honest picture

Good to know

Strengths

  • Easy to replace, resize or re-key without changing the whole lock
  • Available in a huge range of security levels, up to TS 007 3-Star and Sold Secure Diamond
  • Master-key suites are possible for buildings with many doors
  • Keys are small, light and quick to copy

Worth knowing

  • Basic cylinders can be picked, bumped, drilled or snapped; for an external door choose a tested anti-snap cylinder
  • A cylinder is only as strong as the lock and door furniture around it
  • A cylinder that sticks out beyond the handle plate is easier to attack, so the correct length matters; we can check the fit

Standards to look for

  • TS 007 (1, 2 and 3 Star): tests resistance to picking, drilling, bumping, snapping and plug extraction. A 3-Star rating is recommended for external doors
  • Sold Secure SS312 Diamond: an independent test scheme for high-security cylinders
  • BS EN 1303: the European standard that grades cylinders for locks

F.A.Q

Frequently asked questions

  • How do I know which cylinder I have?

    Bring the key, or the cylinder itself, and we can identify the profile, measure the size and match the blank.

  • Standard keys are easy to duplicate. Restricted or patented key systems need the registered owner's security card, which is how they keep their keys under control.

  • It is the top rating in the TS 007 test, which attacks the cylinder in five ways: picking, drilling, bumping, snapping and plug extraction. It is the rating recommended for external doors.

  • Do not force it. A worn key or a dirty cylinder is the usual cause. A fresh cut made from your original key (not from a worn copy) and a little dry lubricant such as graphite or PTFE spray often cures it. Avoid oil, which attracts dirt.

Quote

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Location:

Keys Master, 159 Queens Road, Peckham, London SE15 2ND

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